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Essay on Effects of Ocean waves on the Earth's Surface
Water is one of the most powerful agencies in the world. It can move, slash, and rip out massive quantities of dirt and rock. Moving water in massive quantities was the primary agent used to change the face of our world at the time of the Flood. The carrying power of rapidly moving water is astonishing. "The astonishing power exerted by a flood of rushing water, both scouring and in transporting material, is rarely fully appreciated even today." —*Cyril S. Fox Water, (1953) p. xiv. (Evolution Facts) Waves are usually caused by the interaction with the wind over the surface in a constant direction. These waves will join constructively and orderly to form swells, and may move out of the area of origination. In a moving wave in the open ocean, the water does not travel with the wave of energy, but remains relatively stationary.
Waves can travel long distances across the entire ocean. The size of these waves depends on the speed of the wind, the duration, and the fetch, or the distance over which the wind blows. In theory the height of the wave cannot exceed 0.14 times the wavelength without collapsing. This results in white caps and breaking waves produced by strong winds. Every scuba diver knows that a raging sea on the surface will have little or no effect. The drag produced by the seabed on the wave causes the wave to crest and overtake the main body of the wave, known to surfers as the pipeline. The energy from the wave is transferred to the speed of the water rushing up the beach. When waves approach a coastal line at an angle other than ninety degrees, the wave will tend to break parallel to the beach. If the coast has an embayment the waves will spread out and break parallel to the beach.....
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