A wave is a way in which energy travels from one place to another. There are many kinds of waves, such as water waves, sound waves, light waves, radio waves, microwaves and earthquake waves. All waves have some things in common. The highest point the waves reaches is called the crest. The lowest point is called the trough. The distance from one crest to the next is the wave length. The number of waves that pass a given point in one second is the wave's frequency (Natgerman, 1995).
When wind blows over the ocean's surface, it creates waves. Their size depends on how far, how fast and how long the wind blows. A brief, gently breeze forms patches of tiny ripples on the surface called catspaws; strong, steady winds over long distances create large waves. But even when you feel no wind at all, you may encounter large swells created by distant storms (John, 2000).
In the open sea, waves make floating boats bob up and down instead of pushing them along. This is because the waves travel through water, the do not take the water with them. As a wave arrives it lifts water particles. These travel forward, then down and back so that each particle completes a circle. Circling movements of particles near the surface set off smaller circling movements below them (Natgerman, 1995).
Ocean waves are generated by wind passing over open stretches of water, the exact process being complex and not fully understood. The waves formed are very variable in size and regularity, as any sailor or surfer well knows. They can be characterized by their length from crest to crest, the height from trough to crest, and the period of time between them. Larger waves contain more energy per meter of crest length than smaller waves.........
